Super snappy peas12/18/2023 If you've never grown peas before and the soil is not well conditioned, consider using a legume inoculant. To hasten germination, or if growing conditions are slightly less favorable, soak the seeds overnight in lukewarm water. At those temperatures, the seeds will emerge in a few days. The ideal temperatures for the germination of pea seeds are between 60° to 65° F for soil and about 75° F for air temperature. In fact, overfertilizing fall peas increases the plants' susceptibility to frost. Because peas are legumes and fix nitrogen in the soil by root nodules, fertilizing isn't necessary. Avoid high-nitrogen organic materials, such as lawn clippings or manures. I spread about 2 inches of compost over the planting area and cultivate it in. Both are high-sugar snow peas and both are resistant to wilt, bean yellow mosaic virus, and powdery mildew.īefore planting late peas, add plenty of compost to the soil to help it retain moisture and stay cool during the summer when the peas really have to struggle. ' Oregon Giant' and 'Oregon Sugar Pod II' are the same, except the latter grows nearly twice as tall as 2-1/2-foot 'Oregon Giant'. ' Super Sugar Snap' (62) grows on a trellis to 6 feet it's resistant to pea leaf roll virus and powdery mildew. ' Cascadia' (60) is a 2-1/2-foot-tall variety recommended for the Northwest for its resistance to mosaic virus. ' Utrillo' (71) is a 2-1/2-foot-tall variety that is resistant to powdery mildew. It is also resistant to all diseases except pea leaf roll virus. ' Top Pod' (70) is a 2-foot-tall variety that takes more heat and dry weather than most peas and conveniently produces its clusters of pods at the plant tops, making harvest easy. ' Oregon Trail' (70) grows 2-1/2 feet tall and is resistant to wilt, mosaic virus, and powdery mildew. It is resistant to wilt, bean yellow mosaic virus, and powdery mildew. ' Novella II' (65) is a 1-1/2-foot-tall, semileafless variety that produces a sufficient tangle of stems and tendrils to support itself upright. It grows 2-1/2 feet high and resists all diseases except pea leaf roll virus. ' Maestro' (61) is similar to 'Green Arrow'. ' Knight' (58) grows 2 feet tall and is resistant to all pea diseases except pea leaf roll virus. It resists wilt, pea leaf roll virus, and powdery mildew. ' Green Arrow' (68) grows about 3 feet tall and produces high yields of pods with superior flavor. ' Alderman' (same as 'Tall Telephone', 73) is a 4- to 5-foot-tall variety that tolerates heat and produces well, but it is prone to powdery mildew and other pea diseases. That way, the plants won't blossom (you hope!) before a hard frost arrives. But because young plants grow slowly in late summer heat, I recommend you add 9 to 14 days to the days listed on the packet (and below). Depending on the variety, that means planting 70 to 90 days before your average earliest hard-frost date. The goal in fall planting is to time growth so that the first flowering occurs before the first frost in fall. The number following the variety name is the nominal -days to maturity-listed for the variety. To be cautious, call your local extension office or Master Gardener service and ask which pea diseases are common in your area, then select varieties resistant to those diseases. Other diseases that cause problems include: pea enation mosaic virus (primarily in the Pacific Northwest) bean yellow mosaic virus common wilt and pea leaf roll virus. Powdery mildew is the most common disease of peas in late summer. ![]() The key is to plant only varieties with known tolerance of (or resistance to) heat and diseases. With careful variety selection and some simple precautions, I've had good luck. ![]() But, as with any gamble, if you make sure the odds are in your favor, you're more likely to hit the jackpot. An early hard frost, particularly when the plants are in blossom, can ruin the crop. The fall crop in my Delaware garden is lighter than my spring crop, but because the late peas mature in cool temperatures, they generally taste sweeter than spring peas. Farther south (and west) than zone 8, gardeners primarily plant fall crops because spring fades too quickly into summer. Farther north than zone 5, the growing season isn't long enough for two crops. I believe the techniques I've developed will work for gardeners who live in zones 5 through 8. My experience proves fall crops of peas are not only possible, but that their flavor is often superior. Summer rapidly becomes too hot, and fall crops are impossible because we'd need to start the plants during unfavorably hot weather, or so the thinking goes. Peas grow best in cool and humid weather, which is why, where I live in Delaware (USDA Hardiness Zone 7), peas are considered early-spring crops only.
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